Ladakh trip: Day 6 (15-Jun)

Hey all, it’s a new day in the mountains here in Ang, Ladakh.

I was wakened by the toddler’s laughs at 7:00 AM, quickly dressed, and went for a simple breakfast. At 7:45 AM Dorothée, Betsy, Thinlas and Songnam headed out for a half day hike.

The previous evening I had noticed that Dorothée’s hands looked very chapped and burned and had thought to offer her my thin gloves since I was no longer hiking. However, having travelled in the past a few times with Dorothée and knowing she could be a bit particular with the use of personal items. Certainly there was no way to wash and dry them before offering them. However, I was pleasantly surprised when she actually asked me if she could use them. I was delighted to lend them and so happy to know that they would be of good use to a friend in need. Next time around I should just offer; even if someone says no, it’s better to attempt to help.

Shortly after their departure, at around 8:20 AM I also decided to go out to explore. The plan was to just walk along the road, getting a better look at some of the nearby scenery and just appreciating the new environment.

Most of the houses had bundles of drying grasses on top. These are used for animal feed during the winter.

Ang is mostly in a valley, and they carefully manage their water through a simple mini canal system which keeps most of the village green during the summer months.

I think this is a juniper bush. They were all over the place in the village.

Within less than 20 minutes, even though I was walking right along the side of the road, there were no sounds at all of humanity. I closed my eyes for at least five minutes and just let the sounds of the mountain entrace me: there was the faint but constant sound of running water, two different types of birds, the wind, every now and again the intermittent sound of a fleeting insect and then finally, very faintly in the background, the sound of someone calling out to someone else . . . The voice so modulated and changed by the distance that it was more a song than speech.

I was fascinated by the small stone in the crevasse of this large boulder which was at least five meters tall.

Just what it looks like, a selfie with a floral background

It’s hard to appreciate in this photo, but at this point as far as I could see, there was no vegetation. Miraculously though, there was this one flowering bush, perhaps some sort of wild rose?

As I would come across different views, I loved being able to just pause and look, contemplate on the feel of the wind on my skin, the mixture of soft background sounds, the mixed types of beauty: both the barren and stark beauty of the natural world left to it’s own devices, and also the gentle landscapes which had been teased out by humans . . . All the while knowing I didn’t have to get to anywhere, nor was anyone impatiently awaiting so that we could continue on our journey.

Annoying, even in this barren untouched landscape, someone had thought to decorate with trash.

As there is a small natural stream here, the surrounding area is green. A little water seems to go a long way.

Although I wasn’t particularly eager to do so, one of the hosts had been eager that I would walk up to the new monastery which was under construction. So on the off chance that he would ask what I had thought, once I had decided to turn back, I walked up to the new construction site. Having previously seen several ancient monasteries, it was at least interesting to see a new construction. As it is still under construction, I couldn’t enter, but I could see through some very dirty windows that there were already three statues. Aside from the statues themselves, the building looked very modern with stark white walls both inside and out. Honestly, it looked a bit small to be a monastery; maybe it is actually simply meant to be a Buddhist temple or shrine, but he didn’t know the word. I suspect it’s just meant to be a place of nearby worship for the local village. Still, as construction is clearly still under way, it may look very different should I return in ten years time.

The “new monastery” far off in the distance

The view of the monastery as I approached

A large boulder with engraved writing. It was next to the new monastery.

After finishing up at the monastery, I decided to double back to the little oasis I had seen earlier. I was hoping to capture some birds on camera, but more than that, I just wanted to see what could be heard and hear what could be heard. It was a very peaceful resting spot, but the birds kept their distance, so while I was able to see and hear three different types, I couldn’t get any pictures. Regardless, I really enjoyed just reclining on a rock for awhile and basking in the gentle sun as it filtered through the precious tree cover. Then I noticed it was already 11:30 AM, so decided to head back to the homestay.

It’s hard to see here, but I loved the tiny yellow flowers on this patch of greenery in the oasis.

As I couldn’t get a picture of any birds, I decided that I would have to be the representative of the animal kingdom.

As I walked, far off in the distance I could see women tending the fields. As far as I can tell, this is subsistence or even more likely, supplemental agriculture. Maybe some excess is traded or sold at a local market? Upon arrival back to the homestay, my hosts confirmed that most of the local farmers buy their staple foods of wheat, rice and barley, using the vegetables grown both to supplement the household diet and also in some cases selling excess at a local market.

Women working in the fields. All the ones I saw were wearing the same red clothing. I’m not sure why.

Once I arrived at 12:15 PM, it was baby play time for awhile before having a simple lunch of rice, mustard greens and a hard boiled egg. Then pretty much everyone else turned in for an afternoon nap, but I wanted to stay awake since the previous night I had woken at 3:00 AM and had never been able to get properly back to sleep. I didn’t want a repeat of the same!

While sitting on my own, I began to think about what I might do with the 4.5 days I would have once I get back to Leh tomorrow. I think I would actually be just fine with only lazing about the homestay, but having come so far, it seems that for at least three of the days I should try to get out to do some activities and see some of the local sites. I don’t want to wear myself out too much since my muscles are still recovering from all the cramping a few days ago, but I’m sure there is much I can do that would not overly tax me physically. I wouldn’t normally be that concerned, but since I will have a more or less all day flight to Barcelona just two days after I get back to Bengaluru, I want to make sure I’m in good condition to fly.

Various green vegetables, apparently drying in the sun.

I wasn’t the only one who stayed awake. Here the grandmother was sitting outside the front door preparing vegetables for our meal later in the day.

Later on things continued much the same as they had the previous late afternoon and evening. The biggest difference was that we helped make momos. Believe it or not, even I participated and was actually quite good at it. Unfortunately I have no pictures of me, since I was the one doing the pictures. So, you’ll just have to take my word for it.

Tomorrow morning I will separate from the group and head back to Leh on my own. I will have many decisions to make. Regardless of what the future will hold, I’m eternally grateful for the amazing experiences I’ve had so far.