Nepal Trip: Day 3 (20 Mar 2023)

No there isn’t a problem with your screen, my hand was just unsteady at 5:25 AM when I took this photo while we were waiting for Hit to arrive with our transport for the day.

Welcome back readers. If all goes well, this will be our first day on the track to find out the little things that actually make up Nepali village life real, or at any rate, as much as can be see in four nights of travel.

It was definitely the right call to reserve an entire transport for ourselves. A ten hour trip with ten people would have perhaps been educational, but that is one lesson I am willing to forego as long as I have a choice.

By 5:33 AM our driver Botha was pulling out of the drive. As one might expect, the scenery along the way was pretty, and the road was constantly twisting and turning up and down the side of the mountain. For the most part the road was reasonably “good” but yes, there were patches where it was just dirt or where we had to drive though very small bodies of water. However, I certainly never felt unsafe.

I had originally thought that I would probably end up sleeping most of the way despite the beautiful scenery, but as a result of the still rather cramped conditions for my 1.82 metres and 90 kg frame, plus the often rather bumpy and swerving road conditions, that was clearly not likely to happen for much of the ride. By

Sitting behind the driver was a better option due to the softer back of the seat. The front seat had initially looked better, but my knees jammed into hard plastic unless the seat was put back so far as to make the back seat unusable for my traveling companions. While not “comfortable” conditions for me, it was fine. I think Maria and Dorothée, who are both a bit smaller, were actually reasonably comfortable the whole way

At 8:45 AM we stopped for breakfast near Khurkot. I forgot to ask the name, so I’m not actually sure exactly where we were.

The food was more than adequate and some would no doubt even say delicious. Certainly the server was gracious. The cost was 350 NPR ($2.66 USD) for each of the three of us. I assume we were also paying the cost of Hit and Botka in that as well. By 9:30 AM we were back on the road again.

Removing a bit of my feelings of road safety was this memorial marked by mirrors. Evidently a bus had gone off the road here killing 45 people. Still, the fact that there weren’t mirrors everywhere along the way seemed to indicate this was not a common occurrence.

As we were going along, Botka regularly stopped the vehicle to speak to someone near the side of the road. At first I thought maybe he was asking about road conditions ahead or perhaps even directions; although, in retrospect, as there was only one obvious “road” that was a foolish initial assumption. Hit then clarified that Botka was evidently registering time etc . . . with the official. This is a way that they use to keep people from going to fast along the twisting and many times rather narrow roads. At 12:05 PM we stopped for lunch in the town of Ghurmi.

The initial portion placed on ones plate is not very large, but then these people go around giving more if you want. This seems like a good way to ensure nobody leaves hungry without encouraging food wastage.
The tasty momos we ordered was separate from the standard lunch.
While obviously seen as more of a decoration than an actual food item, the spinach was delicious.

The cost for all five of us including the momos and two beers (no, neither was for the driver) was 1950 NPR ($14.76 USD). And by 1 PM we were once more in motion.

The road started to climb upwards again and we arrived by 3:37 PM we had arrived to our first village destination, Siddhicharan. It was raining, and rather cold, but our hosts were kind.

Dinner was around 7 PM and then we played cards with the kids. Again, our hosts are very pleasant, but it was also 5 degrees Celsius and rainy with a not very encouraging forecast for the next few days.

Before going up to bed, we chatted and decided that the best course of action would be to see how the weather actually looked tomorrow morning, but probably we will try to head back towards Kathmandu on Wednesday rather than walking for four hours to an even more isolated village. It’s just too chilly and rainy and we don’t have adequate clothes. Hopefully, we will be able to get out a bit in the morning to see something of the area around the local village. The forecast seems to indicate that would be reasonable for a few hours, but we will have to see. As I got in bed at 9:30 PM, the rain was still coming down and it was 2 degrees Celsius both inside and out. . ..

What will tomorrow bring?

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